Tuna steaks in a bright tomato sauce have become a signature dish in Carloforte, a small Sardinian town where tuna fishing still follows age‑old practices.
Traditional catch meets modern table
Carloforte’s relationship with tuna dates back centuries, with local fishers using hand‑lines that follow the natural cycles of the fish. That heritage informs a new recipe featured in Eat Like A Sardinian, the debut cookbook by local chef Francesco Mattana. The book, which was the focus of a recent kitchen interview, presents the tuna‑and‑tomato preparation as one of its simplest secondi.
The dish relies on a handful of ingredients: anchovies, garlic, a banana‑shallot, red chilli, baby plum or cherry tomatoes, olives, parsley, and a splash of either Vermentino or a dry white wine such as Sauvignon Blanc. The method keeps the sauce light, allowing the fish’s natural flavor to shine.
Step‑by‑step cooking guide
Heat two tablespoons of extra‑virgin olive oil in a medium skillet. Add three finely chopped anchovy fillets and cook for about a minute. Then place two 120‑gram tuna steaks in the pan, searing each side for roughly a minute before removing them to a plate.
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Using the remaining oil, sauté the shallot, a thinly sliced garlic clove, and half a red chilli for three minutes, stirring constantly. Introduce 300 grams of halved tomatoes and 100 ml of Vermentino or wine, cover, and let the mixture simmer for ten minutes. Halfway through, poke the tomatoes with a fork to release their juices.
Season the sauce with fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, then fold in 5 grams of chopped parsley and ten pitted Taggiasca olives. Return the tuna steaks to the pan, cover again, and cook for a final minute so the flesh remains pink inside. Garnish with a sprig of parsley and serve immediately, ideally with sourdough for mopping up the sauce.
A top tip from the author suggests substituting water for wine, adding the juice of a quarter lemon just before plating if the alcohol flavor is undesirable.
Why the pairing works
The combination of tuna and tomato is common across Mediterranean cuisine, but Mattana’s version stays true to the region’s emphasis on simplicity. Anchovies add umami depth without overwhelming the fish, while olives contribute a briny contrast that balances the acidity of the tomatoes. A glass of Vermentino, known for its crisp acidity, pairs well with bright flavors.
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Because tuna steaks cook quickly, the entire recipe can be completed in under twenty minutes, making it suitable for a seasonal side or a light dinner. Serving the fish while still pink guards against the common pitfall of overcooking, which can render tuna dry.
From a practical standpoint, the recipe’s reliance on pantry staples means it can be reproduced outside Sardinia, though the authenticity of local olives and the specific wine may vary. The focus on fresh, local produce aligns with broader trends toward sustainable, region‑focused cooking.
It could serve as a template for other coastal communities seeking to highlight their own fish stocks. If similar recipes gain traction, they might encourage more responsible fishing practices by linking culinary demand to seasonal availability.
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